Box joints are for the most part just that...joints for boxes. Putting box sides together using this joint makes them easy to assemble and it also makes a very nice looking joint. It's a very strong joint even when crudely made.
It can be made in a variety of ways but most woodworkers turn to the table saw. The router is also used quite often. Both methods require the use of jigs to position the finger cuts.
These jigs can be bought, but shop made jigs and plans are readily available from many woodworking sources. This is a great jig to have available in your shop.
Above is a short video of Steve Ramsey from woodworkingformeremortals.com building and using his version of this simple jig.
You can take a look at my version of this jig here . Same principal, slightly different, and it works great. I've used it for several projects and they all turned out great.
When I built my box joint jig there were several features I wanted. I decided to use 1/4" spacing for the pins or "fingers".
This would require a dado set that cut exactly 1/4". Since my stacking dado set had been sharpened several times it no longer cut the width it was supposed to.
Instead of buying a new dado set I used 3 matching 7 1/4" rip blades with a flat top grind and a .030 shim. Exactly 1/4"!
I wanted to use it over and over again without losing alignment. To take care of this I simply added locating blocks on the back of the jig so when I re-attached it to the miter gauge it fit snug and in the same spot.
I wanted tight joints. Instead of using a wood locating pin that will wear down over time I used a small piece of 1/4" x 1/2" steel. I locked it in solid with a screw that held it in place.
1. Jig alignment block against side of miter gauge.
2. Screw holding alignment pin in place.
3. Three 7 1/4" blades with flat top grind teeth.
4. Indexing pin.
5. Jig screwed to miter gauge.
Mortise and Tenon Joints
Pocket Hole Joints
Tongue and Groove Joints