These router table plans are the ones I use for simple shop made router tops.
These tops can be for a one time use, a one purpose top, or a permanent setup for a regular cut. I use all of the above.
These router table plans are for the basic top. You can add the type of fence, whether permanent or movable, according to what you plan to use the top for. You can also add a miter gauge groove, dust collection, or any other special addition to get the most out of your new top.
I've found that a lot of times it's better to have several tops permanently set up. It saves time when you have to make the same router cut on several jobs.
Cut out the table parts.
I like to make the top substrate from 3/4" particle board. I normally have a lot of scraps on hand from the countertops I build. Also, the density helps keep the vibration down. I make most of my tops 25 x 33 to fit the router cabinets I have. 33" also allows me to fit router table parts such as fences and miter gauge rails that can be bought at woodworking supply stores.
Attach the edge trim.
I use 3/4" x 1-1/2" hardwood trim to help beef up the top. Attaching it with pocket joint screws and glue will give you a very strong, flat top. After attaching, I sand the top to make sure the trim is flush.
Get the top material ready.
Covering the entire top with a utility grade high pressure laminate is one of the best options I've found. I like to use white laminate so I can write notes on the top such as which bit, what height, and any other measurement I might need in the future.
Position the laminate.
I like to lay the laminate on 3/4" x 3/4" sticks to help position the laminate before gluing. Cutting the laminate larger (approx. 1/2") than the top helps when your ready to glue the pieces together. Put a even amount of contact cement on both pieces and allow to dry to the touch before sticking together. It's best to roll or spray the contact cement to get a even coat.
Attach the laminate.
After positioning the laminate on sticks pull the end stick and start sticking the laminate to the top. Using moderate pressure, roll the laminate toward the next stick. Pull each stick and roll until the laminate is completely stuck to the top. Using this method virtually eliminates any trapped air bubbles.
Trim the excess.
Trim the excess laminate, clean up the excess glue if any, and then sand the edges to a slight round over. If you have a 1/8" roundover bit for your router use it instead. I use several sizes of roundover bits with a top bearing and find them very useful in the shop.
Position the router base.
With these router table plans I've found that positioning the router as far back from the front of the top as possible gives me a larger surface to slide my wood across.
Mark, drill and countersink.
Lay out the hole pattern used to mount the router base to the router. Don't re-attach the router base. This won't be used as the router top is replacing it. Keep it handy for a template for your next top. When drilling the countersink for the screw heads make sure the heads will be slightly lower than the surface of the router top.
Attach the router base.
You'll probably need to get some longer screws at a hardware store to attach the base. Again, make sure the heads of the screws are seated below the surface.
Cut the center hole.
Using your routers height adjustment, slowly plunge a router bit through the top. This bit should be slightly larger than the bit you intend to use with this top. After cutting the hole sand around the edges of the hole to get rid of any raised laminate.
Depending on how you plan to use the new top that you're building from these router table plans you can add a fence, a dust collection system, or maybe a miter gauge groove. Make your top fit your needs and make as many tops as you want from these router table plans.